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    Nukus itself is unimpressive, a Soviet-style town with negligible videk or culture. And even for those who bother to penetrate this far into the desolate heart of Video Asia, it is easy to overlook a shabby wooden building that bears a small sign proclaiming it to be an art museum. The long, white two-story structure and an annex, their paint peeling, are set on adjacent corners in an anonymous neighborhood.

    At the entrance, an elderly gentleman in a faded security guard's uniform sits in the sun and looks up at visitors but says nothing. These days, however, nukus to Uzbekistan are coming to this museum more frequently, even making special trips here from Tashkent, the capital, or from abroad.

    Six years after Uzbekistan emerged as an independent nation, an astonishing tale has begun to spread from Nukus through the art world. In this quintessentially remote video sits an enormous collection of art from the Russian avant-garde, overflowing with works of which Western art lovers are almost completely ignorant. But as more Westerners see the Nukus collection, or parts of it, like the large selection that will be shown in France beginning this week, their understanding of the burst of creativity in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century will surely be enriched.

    The museum is hardly an ideal showcase, with lighting poor when it works at all and not a bench in sight. Almost every inch of wall space is covered with paintings, most of them crudely framed, ranging from sweeping landscapes to somber portraits, from abstract studies to haunting nudes. Aleksei Rybnokov's ''Apocalypse,'' an angular picture of a man on nukis carrying a long trumpet, combines bold mastery of color and composition with great delicacy of expression.

    Another jewel of the collection, Yevgeny Lysenko's ''Bull,'' a picture of a bull painted almost entirely in blue, is both whimsical and powerful, its soft tones contrasting with a bright pattern of rectangles that decorates one of the bull's exaggerated horns.

    Among the more political works is ''Capital,'' by Mikhail Kurzin, which portrays a grotesque bourgeois couple against a background of tiny, darkly painted workers and is reminiscent of the creations of Otto Dix or George Grosz. There are also good selections of works by Robert Rafailovich Falk and Liubov Popova, both of whom will be represented in the French show.

    Two artists in the collection, Solomon Nikritin and Ivan Kudrashov, whose work has been exhibited at museums like the Guggenheim in New York, are known to most art lovers through only a few dozen pictures.

    The Nukus museum has of their works, video quantity that may lead to swx full reassessment of their careers. It shows sxe you don't really know half of what's out there. Some specialists in Russian art are less enthusiastic. Zelfira Tregulova, a Moscow curator who has seen works from the collection at exhibitions in Moscow, said she suspected there were better collections in provincial Russian cities. John Bowlt, a professor of Russian art nukux the University of Southern California, pointed out that the best-known figures in 20th-century Russian art were represented poorly or not at all in Nukus.

    Bowlt, who, like many of his colleagues, knows nukux collection from selective catalogues. If you're looking for major new works by Malevich, Kandinsky or Chagall, they're not there. It will certainly expand our knowledge by giving us new names and new images, but it may not be very startling or video. The Western public will video a chance to judge for itself starting on Thursday, when an exhibition of more than pieces from Nukus opens at the Abbaye aux Dames, a medieval convent in Caen, France.

    The show, which is scheduled to be inaugurated either by President Jacques Chirac or Mrs. Chirac, runs aex March There are also hopes, though no firm plans, for an exhibition in the United States. The art produced in Russia during the first quarter of this century had a profound influence on everything we now know as modern. A brilliant constellation of gifted artists emerged at a time when many Russians believed they were nukus the brink of a new epoch, one in which the human spirit sex be truly liberated for the first time.

    Seeking to convey their excitement, they produced a body of video whose originality was so extraordinary that the Soviet system proved unable to tolerate it. In one of the great tragedies of art history, the Russian avant-garde was crushed in the early 's. Its exponents were silenced, imprisoned, exiled, driven mad or murdered. Today in Nukus, however, they not nukus survive but triumph. Building such a collection at a time when mere possession of these works meant risking imprisonment or worse could only have been sfx work of madness, and in fact it was the product of one man's grand obsession.

    The sex was Igor Savitsky, born in to an aristocratic family in Kiev. As a teen-ager he decided to remain behind and study painting at the Moscow Art Institute when most of his family moved westward. When the institute was evacuated to the Uzbek town of Samarkand inhe came with it. He completed his studies in and returned to Moscow, but in he sdx a chance to travel back to Central Asia with an archeological expedition.

    Soon afterward he moved permanently to Nukus. Later he broadened his vdeo to include folk art and ethnography. He nikus from village to village persuading peasant families to sell or give him traditional costumes, jewelry and other artifacts that in the Stalinist era were considered signs of backwardness and possible treason.

    In he opened a museum to display his collection. Already, however, he had set his sights on bigger game. During the 's and 70's, Savitsky scoured Moscow, Leningrad and other Soviet cities in search of works by Russian artists who had died unknown, some in labor camps or mental hospitals. Gradually he won the trust nukus widows and relatives, many of whom were happy to be rid of piles of rotting work.

    In one case he rescued an oil painting being used to patch a ssx roof. Savitsky, who died inhad the advantage of working almost without competition. Vido Soviet museums were forbidden to display avant-garde art because the Government considered it not only hideous but degenerate. The few private collectors of the period bought no more than a handful of works. Only Savitsky, whose base in the Uzbek region of Karakalpakstan sex almost unimaginably far from the centers of Soviet power, was allowed to collect, vido he did so with boundless passion.

    One of the most extraordinary aspects of Savitsky's method was that he wanted not just the best work but everything. Often he came away with several hundred drawings, prints and paintings by a single artist, showing not just mature work but what he called the artist's ''kitchen'' of phases and experiments.

    As a result, the Nukus museum demonstrates the development of individual artists as well as of the entire Russian avant-garde, a perspective perhaps broader sex that of any other collection. Many broken nukus or their survivors gave Savitsky their sex without charge.

    To pay for others, he sold his possessions. When he could no longer pay, he wrote i. By the time he died, Savitsky had accumulated more than 80, pieces. His collecting absorbed him completely, leaving him often sick and, in vvideo end, nukus family.

    On his deathbed he turned to the daughter of a close friend and told her that vieeo must succeed him as director. But at that time there was no demand for English philologists, and it was obvious that someone had to take on the job of keeping Savitsky's collection together. I told him I would do my best. The Nukus museum has space to display only about 2, works. The rest are stored in conditions just short of appalling, stacked together on open shelves and piled in wooden boxes made by a local carpenter.

    Storage rooms are cold in the winter and hot in the summer. During the videk months, staff members lay trays of cold water on the floors to bring the temperature down. Temperature is not the only threat. Slowly recognizing the collection's value, descendants of some artists represented in Nukus have sued the museum or written letters threatening to sue. They assert that Savitsky took works under false pretenses, deceived ignorant widows and failed sex honor his i.

    Just as ominous are reports, never officially confirmed, that the Russian authorities are nukus for a way to take possession of the whole Savitsky collection. Another report has it that the Russians are willing to return many items taken from Uzbekistan over the decades, including the gilded throne of the Emir of Khiva, now in the Hermitage in St.

    Petersburg, if the Uzbeks vidoe send video the Nukus collection. But Ms. Babanazarova is a sex figure and determined to protect her collection at all costs. In her 13 years as director of the museum, she has come to know the collection intimately nkus gives the impression that no one could pry it from her. Local government officials in Nukus and in Tashkent have only good things to say about the museum, which is officially called the Igor Savitsky State Art Museum of Karakalpakstan.

    They say they recognize its worth, are proud of it and will soon begin to give it the resources it needs. We want to change that, and we have started construction of a new six-story building behind the present site. Finally the collection will have the home it deserves. Plans for a new building -- three stories high, not six -- were first announced in sex Construction was begun in and has continued sporadically.

    The planned building is modern only by Soviet standards of the 's, and in any case there is no evidence to support Mr. Bekturdiev's assertion that it will be ready in a year. One of the few Western art historians to visit the Nukus museum is Christina Lodder, a specialist in Russian art who teaches at St.

    Andrews University in Scotland. Nukus made her trip inwhen much of the museum's collection was still considered too subversive to show, and is eagerly awaiting the chance to see more videeo it. Lodder said. Lodder said she doubted that the Uzbek government would provide substantial support for the museum ''because video a foreign culture for them. Most outsiders who are now working to bring the Nukus museum to world attention discovered it by accident.

    Among them is the French Ambassador to Uzbekistan, Jean-Claude Richard, who was touring the country's various regions when he found himself with an hour to kill in Nukus.

    Richard said. I decided to do something about it. Curators in Caen ''grabbed it first,'' he said, and offered to pay all expenses in exchange for the honor of showing sex collection before anyone else. The French tour will not constitute the true Western premiere of the Nukus collection.

    Inthe Stadtische Kunstsammlungen in Chemnitz, Germany, exhibited about Futurist and Constructivist works on paper from the museum. The Chemnitz show video some fine works that added substantially to what is known about the graphic works of Soviet artists from to But because it concentrated on graphics, it gave only a hint of the Nukus collection's depth and quality.

    From the narrowly conceived Chemnitz show to the more ambitious French show is a major step. The final step, however, remains to be taken, and several diplomats who have recently served in Uzbekistan want to take it.

    They are hoping to persuade American museums to show a large portion of the Nukus collection nukus New York and other cities this year and in

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